How to Set Up a Car for Flat Towing Behind an RV: The Complete DIY Install Guide

October 28, 2026

Want to flat tow your car, Jeep or truck behind your motorhome and do the install yourself? This guide walks through every part of a flat-tow setup, the order to install them in, roughly how long each step takes, and what to check before your first trip. Shopping for parts first? Start with our Flat Towing Guide, then come back here for the install.

What is flat towing?

Flat towing (also called dinghy towing, four-down towing, or pulling a "toad") means towing a vehicle behind your RV with all four wheels on the road. There's no trailer or dolly to store, and hooking up takes only a few minutes once everything is installed.

Most of the setup is the same no matter what you tow. A few parts, mainly the base plate and the wiring connection, are specific to your vehicle's make, model and year. We'll point those out as we go.

Step 0: Confirm your vehicle can be flat towed

Before buying anything, check your vehicle's owner's manual. Look for a section called "Recreational Towing," "Towing Behind a Motorhome," or "Dinghy Towing." It will tell you:

Whether the vehicle can be towed four wheels down at all
The exact procedure (for example, shifting a 4x4 transfer case to neutral, setting the ignition position, or pulling a specific fuse)
Any maximum towing speed or distance limits
Whether the engine needs to be run at intervals during long trips

Requirements can change from one model year to the next, even on the same vehicle. If your manual doesn't mention flat towing or says not to, don't do it without a manufacturer-approved solution, such as a driveshaft disconnect or lube pump, or consider a tow dolly instead.

Step 1: Check your weights

Three numbers need to line up:

Your motorhome's hitch rating (on the receiver or in the RV manual)
Your motorhome's GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating): the maximum weight of the RV plus everything it tows
Your towed vehicle's weight, loaded with whatever you carry in it

Your tow bar must also be rated for at least the towed vehicle's weight. We sort tow bars by capacity: up to 6,000 lb, up to 8,000 lb, and 10,000 lb and up.

The complete flat-tow parts list

Component	What it does	Vehicle-specific?	Typical DIY time*
Base plate	Mounts to the towed vehicle's frame so the tow bar has somewhere to connect	Yes	3–6 hours
Tow bar	Connects your RV's hitch receiver to the base plate	No	Under 1 hour
Wiring / lighting kit	Makes the towed vehicle's brake lights, tail lights and turn signals follow the RV's	Partly	2–4 hours
Supplemental braking system	Applies the towed vehicle's brakes when the RV brakes	Portable: No / Permanent: Partly	Portable: minutes / Permanent: 3–5 hours
Safety cables	Backup connection if the tow bar ever separates	No	Minutes
Breakaway switch	Applies the towed vehicle's brakes if it separates from the RV	No	Usually included with brake install
Drop or rise receiver	Levels the tow bar when the RV hitch and base plate are at different heights	No	Minutes
Battery charge line or disconnect	Prevents battery drain on vehicles that need the ignition on while towed	Partly	1–2 hours

*Time estimates are rough averages for someone with basic tools and some mechanical experience. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions for your specific parts.

Recommended install order

Installing in this order saves you from removing the same panels twice:

Base plate: the front fascia or bumper cover often comes off for this.
Wiring: run it while the front end is already open.
Permanent braking system and breakaway (if you chose one): also easier with access to the front end.
Battery charge line (if needed).
Reassemble the front end.
Mount the tow bar on the RV and check height.
Add the drop or rise receiver if needed, then hook up and test.

Installing the base plate

This is the biggest job in the setup and the one people worry about most. Base plates are built for one make, model and year range, so start by finding the right one in our base plates by vehicle collection.

What to expect:

Removing the front bumper cover or fascia (plastic clips and a handful of bolts on most vehicles)
Bolting brackets to the frame, sometimes using existing holes and sometimes drilling
On some vehicles, trimming the fascia or relocating parts like tow hooks or air dams

Tools you'll usually need: socket set and ratchet, torque wrench, trim-panel removal tools, drill and bits, and a second set of hands for lifting the fascia off and back on.

Tips:

Read the full instructions before you start. Photograph clip and bolt locations as you remove them.
Torque every bolt to spec. Base plate bolts carry the full load of the towed vehicle.
Removable-arm base plates keep the front of the car looking stock when you're not towing.

Wiring the lights

Most states and provinces require working tail lights, brake lights and turn signals on the towed vehicle. There are three common approaches:

Diode kit: taps into the vehicle's existing light wiring. Diodes keep the RV's signals from feeding back into the car's electrical system (and vice versa). This is the most common DIY option.
Bulb-and-socket kit: adds separate bulbs to the tail light housings, so the car's own wiring is never touched.
Vehicle-specific plug-in harness: available for some models. It's the fastest install, with little or no wire splicing.

You'll also run a cable from the front of the towed vehicle to the RV's connector (usually 6-pin or 4-pin). Use loom and zip ties to keep wires away from heat, sharp edges and moving parts. Browse wiring and lighting kits.

Installing a supplemental braking system

A supplemental braking system helps stop the towed vehicle so your RV's brakes aren't doing all the work. Most U.S. states and Canadian provinces require one once the towed vehicle passes a certain weight, and the rules vary by location. Many RVers run one regardless.

Portable systems sit on the driver's floor and press the brake pedal. No permanent install, quick to move between vehicles, but you set them up each time you tow.
Permanently installed systems mount under the dash or hood and stay out of sight. They take longer to install, but you can hook up much faster on travel days.

Most systems include a breakaway switch that applies the towed vehicle's brakes if it ever separates from the RV. Many states require it. Browse braking systems.

Mounting the tow bar and getting the height right

Tow bars slide into your RV's hitch receiver and secure with a hitch pin. Then measure:

Park the RV and towed vehicle on level ground.
Measure from the ground to the top of the RV's receiver opening.
Measure from the ground to the center of the base plate connection points.

The tow bar should be as close to level as possible. Most makers recommend staying within about 3 inches. If the difference is bigger, add a drop or rise receiver to bring it level. A tow bar running at a steep angle can stress components and affect handling.

Not sure which tow bar? Compare standard, all-terrain and heavy-duty models.

Safety cables

Safety cables connect the RV to the towed vehicle as a backup to the tow bar. Install them so they cross under the tow bar, forming a cradle that can catch the tow bar if a connection fails. Leave enough slack for turns, but not so much that the cables drag on the road. Shop safety cables and adapters.

Optional add-ons worth considering

Battery charge line: keeps the towed vehicle's battery charged from the RV. It's important on vehicles that need the ignition left in accessory mode while towed.
Battery disconnect: another way to prevent battery drain on some vehicles.
Rock guard or protective shield: protects the towed vehicle's paint and windshield from road debris kicked up by the RV.
Locking hitch pins: keep your tow bar from walking away at a campground.

See all tow bar accessories and parts.

First-trip checklist

Before you head out the first time (and as a quick routine every hookup):

Tow bar securely pinned in the receiver, with the hitch pin clip or lock in place
Tow bar arms latched and locked to the base plate
Safety cables connected and crossed under the tow bar
Wiring connected. Have a helper check tail lights, brake lights and both turn signals.
Braking system on and tested. Breakaway cable connected.
Towed vehicle set up per the owner's manual: transfer case, transmission, ignition position, fuses
Steering wheel unlocked so the front wheels can follow turns
Parking brake off
Do a slow test loop in a parking lot, including turns, before hitting the highway

Vehicle-specific guides

The base plate, wiring connection and towing procedure all depend on your vehicle. We're building step-by-step setup guides for the most popular flat-tow vehicles:

More vehicles are coming soon. Check back on our blog.

Get the right parts the first time

Not sure what fits your vehicle and RV? Use our What Are You Towing? guide, or send us your vehicle's year, make and model through the Find My Towing Parts form. We'll help you build a complete, matched setup so you can do the install yourself with confidence.

This guide is general information. Always follow your vehicle manufacturer's towing instructions and the installation instructions included with each product. Towing laws vary by state and province, so check the requirements where you'll be traveling.

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